My Journey to the Top of Mt. Fuji

By Thawng Tunngo

One beautiful summer morning in Tokyo, 1998, I woke up early with a surge of excitement. Unlike other days, I had a special plan for the day: I was going to hike the notorious Mt. Fuji, Japan’s highest and most famous peak.

I had been to Mt. Fuji twice before, once in the summertime with friends and relatives, and once in the winter with friends from Shibuya Baptist Church. Both times, I only reached the fifth station, the base camp where most hikers start their ascent. The last time I was there, in winter, I couldn’t even see the summit, as it was shrouded by clouds and mist. I felt a pang of disappointment and made a vow in my mind that one day I would come back and hike to the top.

We met at the church and took a hired bus to Mt. Fuji. It took about two hours to get to the fifth station on the Fuji-Subaru Line, which leads to the summit from the north side of the mountain. It was very hot and humid in the city of Tokyo, but as the bus climbed uphill, it became cooler and fresher. Everything around us was green and lush.

From the fifth station, we were planning to climb to the top of Mt. Fuji on foot. We chose the Yoshida Trail, which is the most popular and beginner-friendly trail. It has many mountain huts and facilities along the way, where hikers can rest, eat, drink, and even sleep overnight.

However, we decided not to stay overnight, but rather start our hike late in the afternoon and reach the summit by dawn. This is a common practice among hikers who want to see the sunrise from the top of Mt. Fuji, which is said to be a spectacular and spiritual experience.

The downside of this plan is that we had to hike in the dark for most of the time, which requires extra caution and preparation. We also had to deal with the risk of altitude sickness, which can affect anyone above 2,500 meters. The symptoms include headache, nausea, dizziness, and fatigue.

To prevent altitude sickness, we had to pace ourselves slowly, take regular breaks, drink plenty of water, and eat snacks. We also had to dress warmly and in layers, as the temperature drops significantly at higher altitudes. Even in mid-summer, it can be below zero degrees Celsius at the summit.

We packed our bags with all the necessary gear and supplies: hiking shoes, hats, gloves, rainwear, jackets, quick-drying underwear, headlamps, trash bags (there are no bins on the mountain), walking sticks (which can be bought or rented at the fifth station), food (such as energy bars, nuts, dried fruits), and money (to buy drinks or souvenirs at the huts).

We started our hike around 6:00 PM. The sun was still up, but not too hot. There was a gentle breeze blowing. We felt energetic and optimistic.

The trail between the fifth station and the sixth station was not very steep or difficult. We reached it in about an hour. There were many people waiting there to start their hike after sunset. In our group, we were 25 people of different ages and genders.

We took a rest at the sixth station for about 15 minutes and then continued to the seventh station. The sun went down, and it became dark. We turned on our headlamps and followed the trail of lights ahead of us.

When I looked up at the mountain slope, I saw hundreds of tiny lights moving upward like fireflies. It was an amazing sight that filled me with awe and wonder. I realized that I was part of a huge crowd of people who shared the same goal: reaching the summit of Mt. Fuji. I also looked back at the trail behind me and saw more lights following us. I felt a sense of camaraderie with my fellow hikers.

The trail between the sixth station and the seventh station was harder than before. It was steeper and rockier. We had to walk on volcanic stones that crunched under our feet. There were some parts where iron ropes were installed to help us climb up or down.

We started to spread out as some of us walked faster or slower than others. Some people struggled more than others with breathing or walking.

When I got to the seventh station, I saw only a few people from my group who had kept up with me. I don’t remember how long it took me to get there, but it felt like forever. We rested at the seventh station for about an hour. We used the bathroom, which cost 200 yen and was not very clean or comfortable. We also bought some hot drinks and snacks from the hut, which were very expensive but also very welcome.

We waited for the rest of our group to arrive. Some of them came one by one, looking tired and exhausted. Some of them said they wanted to give up and go back to the fifth station. They said they had enough and didn’t care about the sunrise anymore. I told them that I was determined to reach the top of Mt. Fuji, no matter what. I said I had made a vow and I wanted to fulfill it. Some of them agreed with me and decided to keep going. Five of us left the seventh station and headed to the eighth station. Later, I learned that the others who stayed at the seventh station slept there for a few hours and then went back to the fifth station in the morning.

The route between camp 8 and 9 was very rough and steep. I could only hike a few steps at a time before I had to stop and catch my breath. The higher the altitude, the harder it was to breathe. I also had to be careful not to slip and fall backwards on the slope. It was very steep and narrow. We had to climb over large boulders and squeeze through tight spaces.

We also had to cope with the altitude, which made us feel dizzy and nauseous. We had to breathe deeply and slowly, and drink water frequently. We also had to endure the darkness, which made us feel lonely and scared. We had to rely on our headlamps and follow the signs that marked the trail.

Just before dawn, around 5:30 or 6:00 AM, the route became wider and more like stairs made of stones. I noticed that everyone was sitting on the edge of the stairs and looking at the horizon in silence. I asked someone what was happening, and he told me that they were waiting for the sun to rise in the east. He said it was the best time to watch the sunrise from Mt. Fuji. I thanked him and found a spot to sit and wait.

After about fifteen minutes, I saw the sun emerge from the horizon. It was a breathtaking sight. The sun was glowing orange and red, lighting up the sky and the clouds. I felt a surge of emotion as I watched the sunrise in silence with my friend from my group. It was a moment that words cannot describe.

Hiking in daylight was easier, but the last part of the route was tough again. Some parts of the track were barely walkable. But I could see the top of the mountain and I felt a new energy to reach it. The trail was still steep and rocky. I saw more people around us, coming from different trails. There are four trails that lead to the summit of Mt. Fuji: Yoshida (yellow), Subashiri (red), Gotemba (green), and Fujinomiya (blue). They all converge at the eighth station and become one trail to the top.

We followed the yellow trail, which is also called the sunrise trail or goraiko trail. It is the most popular and crowded trail, especially during peak season. We walked among hundreds of people who were all heading to the same destination: the summit of Mt. Fuji.

Finally, around 8:00 AM, we made it to the summit of Mt. Fuji. I have climbed Mt. Fuji. I felt a surge of joy and relief. I felt a sense of accomplishment and pride. I felt a touch of awe and gratitude.

I sat on a rocky ledge and looked at the world below me. It was a beautiful view. I could see small villages, lakes, the Sea of Japan and clouds. I thanked God in my mind for giving me this opportunity to climb Mt. Fuji. It was a wonderful and indescribable feeling.

We bought some souvenirs from the shops at the summit. There is even a post office at the summit where you can send mail with a special stamp that says, “Mt. Fuji Summit”. We walked to the crater and peered into it, which is about 500 meters in diameter and 200 meters deep.

We saw different people from different backgrounds and cultures who shared this moment with us. We saw young and old, men and women, Japanese and foreigners, beginners and experts. Many climbed Mt. Fuji for different reasons: for fun, for challenge, for adventure, for beauty, for faith, maybe for love. But as for me, I climbed Mt. Fuji because I wanted to do something extraordinary in my life. I climbed Mt. Fuji because I wanted to see something amazing in our world. I climbed Mt. Fuji because I wanted to feel something special in my heart. And I did.

We spent about an hour on the top of Mt. Fuji before we started going down.

The route down was different from the route up. I thought it would be easy, but it was not. It was not as tiring as going up, but it was still tricky. We reached base camp around 5:00 PM and left for Tokyo before dark.

I had a great adventure in my life when I climbed Mt. Fuji, one of the world’s most famous peaks. It was a challenging and rewarding experience that I will never forget. It was an amazing adventure that I will always remember.

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