AsiaMagazineMyanmarTravel

A Long-Awaited Return to Chin State

By Thawngno

   

In the spring of 2017, I had the opportunity to travel to Burma with my family. It was a special trip for me, as it was the first time I visited Chin state, where I was born and grew up, since I left in 1989. More than 30 years had passed since I last saw the hills and villages of my homeland.

We flew with ANA airline from Dulles airport and took a rest in Tokyo, where my brother and his family lived. We stayed one night at my brother’s home in Tokyo and enjoyed some Japanese food. The next day, we flew to Rangoon, the former capital of Burma and a bustling city with colonial-era buildings.

My sister and brother-in-law met us at Rangoon’s Mingladon international airport and took us to their home. We stayed in Rangoon for two days and explored some of the sights, such as the Bogyoke Aung San Market, where we bought some souvenirs and local snacks.

Yangon
We stayed at my sister’s home in Yangon for 2 days

We then took a domestic flight to Kalaymyo city, which is at the foot of Chin hill and the only gateway to northern Chin state. My wife’s parents and sister met us at Kalaymyo airport, which was right across the street from my wife’s sister’s house. The weather was very hot and humid, so we took a two-hour rest at her house before continuing our journey.

They had hired a taxi ahead of time to take us into Chin hill. We put our luggage on the taxi and started driving up the winding road. Before we entered Chin hill, we passed a small village called Thingunau, where we lived after my father passed away in 1984. We had a two-story brick house there, which was still standing. As we drove by, I felt a surge of nostalgia and emotion. I remembered how I used to play with my friends there, how I my younger brother and sisters went to school there, how I celebrated festivals there. It was like a flashback to another life.

Home sweet home
My home sweet home in Thingunau village is still standing there

We then entered Chin hill, where the weather became cooler and the scenery greener and lusher. The road was very dusty and bumpy, but I didn’t mind. I was excited to see the places I had missed for so long. We took a rest at Hiang Zing village, where I used to stop when I was in Chin state long ago. We had some tea and snacks at a local shop and chatted with some of the villagers.

Our second rest was at Taingen village, where one of my mom’s relatives lived. He ran a restaurant and welcomed us warmly. We greeted him and had some lunch at his place. He told us some stories about Chin state and how things had changed over the years. He also gave us some advice on where to go and what to see.

Taingen village
A relative from my mother’s side was running a restaurant in Taingen village where we took a rest

After we finished our meal, we resumed our journey. We reached a large town called Teddim around 8 p.m. local standard time. Teddim was where my wife was born and where her parents lived. They had a nice house there and many relatives waiting for us. They greeted us with hugs and smiles and invited us inside. They had prepared a feast for us with many dishes of Chin cuisine, such as pork curry, bamboo shoots, fermented beans, sticky rice and millet wine.

Many relatives
Many relatives waiting for us at my wife’s parents home

We ate and drank and talked until late at night. They asked us about our lives in America and we asked them about their lives in Teddim. They also told us about their plans for the next few days. We stayed at their home for two weeks and met many relatives and friends who came to greet us.

One of the places we visited was Siang Sawn community village near Teddim. I was amazed by their lifestyle and how they built their village in a systematic and clean way. They had a school, a church, a clinic and a market in their village. They also had a water supply system and solar panels for electricity. They were very friendly and hospitable to us and invited us to join their activities.

Siang Sawn Community Village
Siang Sawn Community Village

Another place we visited was Laam Zaang village, about two or three miles from Teddim. My cousin brother drove us there in his car. The village had a beautiful park with flowers and trees. From there, we could see the Manipur river, which was about six miles away at the foot of the mountain. I used to travel to the other side of the river about 35 years ago for business. It was good to see it again after so long.

Laam Zaang village about 3 miles from Teddim
Laam Zaang village about 3 miles from Teddim

Two weeks in Teddim passed quickly. I enjoyed every moment of it. I learned a lot about the culture and current situation of Teddim and its people. I also saw some of the most scenic and breathtaking views in Burma. It was one of the most unforgettable journeys of my life. It was a dream come true for me to be back in my homeland after so long. I felt grateful for this opportunity and for my family who made it possible.